5.15 – Twelve Oaks Vineyard 2017 Chambourcin Rosé
with Karen Binder
“You’ve got a big project coming up!”
I met Karen Binder at a southern Illinois tasting room after our work days were over. Karen’s been a long-time friend of the Illinois wine industry, and a pretty big help to me personally and professionally over the years, so I thought it would be a great idea to have her be my first guest of the On the Road series of wine experiences. She’s also a seasoned journalist, working for many years with the Southern Illinoisan newspaper and a regular contributor to Illinois Agrinews online, so my hope was she could set me straight if I was going off the rails.
The “project” she was referring to is the Illinois Rosé Project, an effort to craft a signature wine style for all of Illinois wine producers. More information about this project can be found in older posts on this blog, as well as the illinoiswine website. In short, the industry implemented quality and stylistic goals, and wines wanting to be part of the project must pass a blind peer evaluation to qualify.
For 2018, wines making the cut are also being featured as the official wines of the Illinois Bicentennial! When you’re out and about, look for this seal on the bottles:
In addition to the project, I thought I could do something extra to help move the needle – I’m always on the road, and know lots of great people, so I thought I could share some of these wines with them and write about the experience. I have friends in agriculture, wine retail and distribution, chefs and sommeliers, writers, and even entertainers who have all expressed interest in sharing in this wine experience with me, so I hope it’s a fun time for everyone!
The wine I picked for Karen was Twelve Oaks Vineyard 2017 Chambourcin Rosé. Twelve Oaks is located just south of Carlyle, IL off of Rt. 127. I went with this one because I wanted Karen, a person very familiar with the Shawnee Hills AVA, to experience a wine she hasn’t had before. This winery opened in 2015, producing around 500 gal (2500 bottles) in the first year. Doug and Jodi Palm are the owners, wine makers, grape growers, tasting room staff, and business directors for the winery, so they have their hands pretty full most of the time, but are never too busy to take a minute to talk about the wine they make and the industry they love. They make deep connections with their customers, and it’s paying off – they’re in the process of building a new wine making facility to help handle the rapid increase in demand! Doug expects the new facility to be up and operational in time for the 2018 harvest.
In addition to being an official selection for the 2018 Bicentennial Rosé Project, this wine recently took a Gold Medal at the International Experience Rosé Wine Competition.
“I can smell it already!” exclaimed Karen, as I poured the first sample into the glass. The bright fruit and floral aromas filled the air before we even swirled, sniffed, etc. Instead of asking for a list of specific descriptors, I asked Karen to play a word association game as we tasted. Here’s what we came up with:
- Perfect for the Patio
On the last one, I asked for a little clarification. Karen started talking about southern Illinois. “Down here we can spend about nine months of the year on the porch, enjoying the natural beauty around us. This wine would work well with all of it, Spring, Summer, and Fall.” During our discussion we kept going back through the history of the southern Illinois wine industry, and I think this wine was responsible for some of these memories. First, it’s made from the ‘Chambourcin’ grape, which shines in southern Illinois vineyards, and is made into several different wine styles, from fortified dessert wine to dry reds. Since the project began two years ago, it is now experiencing tremendous success when made as rosé. Second, the people and the product are inseparable to Karen and me. “Some regions have a cultural personality, no matter who the individual characters are, and that cultural personality persists even if the individuals change over time,” said Karen.
That reminded me a lot of how we define terroir in wine. Doug Palm, while really just beginning as a winemaker, is no stranger to the Illinois wine industry. He’s been a proud grape grower in the region for over twelve years. The grapes he grows are very much a product of southern Illinois culture, and the accolades this wine has received are a strong sign that great things lie ahead for Twelve Oaks Vineyard and Winery! As we were finishing up the session, I asked Karen if there were any surprises.
“Absolutely! This wine is so aromatic and elegant that I was shocked at how dry it is. It’s got great acidity and even a little tannin on the palate. It reminds me of when I go out to wineries in the summer – there’s a bunch of guys drinking red wine under the hot summer sun. Once I walked past a group of red wine drinkers with a pink wine in an ice bucket, and got a curious look. I shared the dry rosé wine with them, and they loved it! I think dry rosé can have structure that shouldn’t be discounted by red wine people.”
I agree! What I loved about this wine is that it combines the best of both worlds – it’s really fun and serious at the same time. We could have talked forever about food combinations too, but eventually landed on the Marcoot Creamery, specifically the Cave-Aged Heritage cheese.
I’d like to thank both Karen Binder and Twelve Oaks for their help with this article. We had a lot of fun, and I hope you get out on the road this season and visit an Illinois winery! For more information on Twelve Oaks Vineyard:
See you on the road next time!